How to Grow Chrysanthemum from Seed

 

How to Grow Chrysanthemum from Seed

                                                                           

Botanical Name      -       Chrysanthemum species 

Chrysanthemum has a special and important place among the flowering plants of ornamental gardening. In most countries, it is the most popular flower after rose due to the colour, texture and beauty of its flowers. It can be easily grown in the garden both in beds and pots. The inflorescence of chrysanthemum is of head or capitulum type. We call each head a flower, which is actually a bunch of many small flowers. Chrysanthemum is called the queen of flowers. It is called "Chrysanthemum" in English which is a word from the Greek language. In the year 1830, a successful exhibition of chrysanthemum took place in England. From then on, its era of popularity and progress began. Chosen Daisy is said to be the parent of Spray or Pompon Chrysanthemum brought to England by Robert Fortune in 1843. Japanese nature and art lovers especially give importance and respect to this flower, that is why it is the national flower of Japan. According to an estimate, chrysanthemum reached Japan in the eighth or ninth century, due to which it was named 'Chrysanthemum'. Its development work took place in both China and Japan and it reached the western countries only after this. Its hybrid varieties were produced at the end of the 19th century. There are about 160 varieties of this genus, including Chrysanthemum Indicum, which is yellow and has single flowers, Chrysanthemum Maurifolium, light purple, pink flowers and 'Choosen Daisy'.

Today's chrysanthemum is a hybrid of many varieties. Efforts are still being made through hybridization in America, Europe and Asia to develop such varieties that can provide flowers throughout the year. There are some varieties of this type that provide flowers in different months.

Climate

It is a very attractive and popular plant of autumn season. Climate plays a very important role in the growth and production of chrysanthemum. Sunlight and atmosphere have a special and important place in its growth and flower development. The short day winter season is suitable for the development and production of colors of its flowers. In the plains, the best flowers are obtained from chrysanthemum only after November. At high places where the weather is cold and there is less rainfall, chrysanthemum is grown for the purpose of taking flowers in August-September, but generally it is grown for display flowers in the autumn season which has short days. For its proper growth and good flower production, 60 degree Fahrenheit temperature is considered best. Its plants do not grow well in the hot sunny season of summer and rainy season.

Soil & Its Preparation

The agricultural area of ​​chrysanthemum is very large. 'Loamy soil' has been found to be the best for successful cultivation of chrysanthemum. Chrysanthemum plants like calcium (lime). They do not bloom and flourish well in acidic soil. Lime being alkaline keeps the acid balanced. Preparation of the soil is of special importance for the successful production of chrysanthemum. Hence, the soil should be prepared in such a way that the roots can develop easily and the plants can become strong. The soil should remain moist and should have the ability to retain nutrients.

chrysanthemum planting guide

Classification of chrysanthemum

(A) On the basis of gardening tendency - On this basis, chrysanthemum can be divided into two major parts-

1. Annual chrysanthemum - Annual varieties of chrysanthemum are usually propagated by seeds and the plant dies after flowering. It is suitable for planting in borders, beds, pots in winter and for mass effect when planted together with other flowers. One of the main species of annual chrysanthemum is C. carinatum. Another popular annual variety is C. coronarium in which flowers grow in clusters like daisies. Its leaves are less finely cut than those of C. carinatum. Its flowers have one or more rows of white, yellow and orange petals.

2. Perennial varieties - Flowers of many colours are found in perennial varieties of chrysanthemum, in which petals are found in many rows. Some of the major varieties among these are Cri. maximum, Cri. frutescens, etc.

(B) On the basis of the shape of the flower, the following varieties are found in them—

1. Reflexed - The petals of the flowers of these varieties are bent backwards and downwards and their ends remain towards the peduncle. If the florets are regularly bent outwards, then they are called regular reflexed, if they are twisted, then they are called irregular reflexed. If the florets are like those of Aster, they are called 'Aster reflexed'.

2. Incurved - In this two petals first go upwards and then bend in the opposite direction from the pedicel. The ends of the petals are turned inwards as a result of which they form a spherical structure. If the florets are bent inwards in a systematic manner, they are called regular incurved. If they are turned in an irregular manner, they are called irregular incurved. If the lower florets hang downwards, they are called Ghaghra-dar incurved. For example, Fanou (yellow), Molly (Terracata) etc.

3. Anemone - In these flowers the middle petals are adjacent to each other and large petals are found spread far and wide around the middle part. The flowers can be of both types - small or large. For example Venus (purple), Mary (red), Mercury (white) etc.

4. Japanese – In this all the florets are spread all around in such a way that it appears globular in structure.

5. Rayonnante – In this each petal is of tube structure.

6. Intermediate – In these every floret is bent downwards and outwards in such a way that only its upper surface is visible. The subflorets on the inside remain bent inwards due to which the flower appears open.

7. Irregular – These are quite similar to intermediate flowers but in these the subflorets are twisted and irregular in shape and remain covered with each other.

8. Fan-shaped – In these the subflorets are long and tubular and their front ends are open or closed. The thickness of the tube varies in different varieties. For example, Rita (white), Donard (yellow), Linda (terracotta), Fire Track (almond), Mun Chausan (purple) etc.

9. Alankari - It is similar to double Korean. The only difference is that the male flowers cover the receptacle. The flowers are small.

10. Charm or Cineraria - The difference between these and Korean is that the diameter of its flowers is not more than 3 and the plants are smaller than Korean. For example - Palmarjam (white), Phyllis (yellow), Jaisi (terracotta) etc.

11. Korean - Its plants grow 25-45 cm tall. Flowers come in large bunches. One, two or many rows of petals are found. Their subflorets are tongue-shaped, the discoid florets are less developed. The flower appears flat. For example - Sita (white), Fatiya (yellow), Sisi (purple), Khushru (red), Tara (copper) etc.

12. Papon - Its plants are sowing shaped on which very small flowers grow. The petals go upwards and then turn inwards. The flower is compact, semi-circular, of small size. Discoid florets are underdeveloped; for example - Himani (white), Freedom (yellow), Lohit (red), Candle Light (purple).

13. Button - Its flowers are small in size and 2-3 cm in diameter, the semi-florets are spread all around; for example- Lilliput (yellow).

14. Cascade - The height of their plants is only 25 cm and their stems have a tendency to spread. Small flowers grow in clusters at the ends of the stems. They are very suitable for growing in hanging baskets.

15. Single - All varieties are included in these whose central part is quite wide and only one or two rows are found towards the outer petals; for example- John Reed (red).

16. Semi Double - More than five rows of semi-florets are found in these. The disc florets are underdeveloped.

17. Spoon-shaped - In these the semi-florets are tubular but their front ends are open and flat which look like a spoon. The inner florets are underdeveloped and the outer florets are formed at right angles to the stem; for example- Casket (pink), Julius (terracotta) etc.

Chrysanthemum growing tips

(c) On the basis of flowering season - On the basis of flowering period, chrysanthemums are divided into the following three classes on the basis of their flowering time-

(i) September-October

(ii) November

(iii) December

Some new varieties of each class are as follows-

1. Varieties flowering in September-October-

                

Variety	Class	Flower color
Sharad Bahar	Double Korean	Brown
Sharad Tarika	Double Korean	White
Sharad Mala	Double Korean	White
Sharad Mukta	Double Korean	Brown white
Shin Fuji	Ornamental	Pink
Botetas	Ornamental	White

                                                                       

                                     

2. Varieties flowering in November-

 

Variety	Class	Flower color
Apsara	Pampone	White Pink
Nanako	Pampone	Pink
Vaman	Double Korean	Yellow
Megami	Double Korean	Yellow
Coimbatore Yellow	Double Korean	Pink

 

3. Varieties flowering in December-

 

Variety	Class	Flower color
Sita	Korean	White
Rita	fan shaped	White
Rita Moli	Incurved	Terracotta
Phyllis	Cinerearia	Yellow
Lilliput	Button	Yellow
Paragan	Anemone	Terracotta
Paragan	Palmpan	Yellow

Improved varieties of chrysanthemum

For general information, classification of chrysanthemum flowers according to their blooming time is given in the following table-

                           

Name of variety	Planting time	Flowering time
Lal Quila, Neelima	September	December-January
Ilni, Cascade	September	February-March
Usha	January	April-May
Deepti, Jwala	February	May-June
Rimjhim, Varsha	February	June-October
Shin Fuji	March	September
Sharad Mala, Sharad Shringar Megami	July	October-November
Birbal Sahni, Jayanti, Apsara	July	November-December
Flurt, Litidh, Jyotsna, Kasturi, Kaumudi	August	December

 

       Chrysanthemum planting time

                    

Latest Varieties

• Shanti - This is basically a decorative variety of flowers. Its plant is up to 51.2 percent long and its flowers are used for making garlands, necklaces and bouquets.

• Sadbhavna - This is basically a variety of small and red flowers. It does not require any support to stand upright. The flowers of this variety usually bloom in December. The nature and size of the plant is suitable for small farming.

• Y2K - This is a small and small flowered variety. It does not require any support to stand upright. It blooms the most in the month of September. The plant grows up to 34-6 cm. The nature and size of this plant is most suitable for small farming.

• Anmol Royal Purple

• Garden Beauty

• Winter Queen

● Item Joy

Manure and Fertilizer

Chrysanthemum plants take a large amount of nutrients from the soil and the use of proper amount of nutrients is absolutely necessary. Use the following amount of manure and fertilizers per hectare-

Cow dung manure             - 15 tons

Nitrogen                            - 20-25 kg

Phosphorus                       - 100 kg

Potash                               - 1 kg

Chrysanthemum plants take a large amount of nutrients from the soil and are interested in dietary changes. This is the reason why chrysanthemum requires a large amount of manure. Its brief description is given below-

Nitrogen - It is helpful in the growth of plants. It increases the length of the leaves, stems and the size of the flowers of the plant. Organic and chemical fertilizers can be used to fulfill this requirement.

If there is a deficiency of this element in the soil, the height of the plant is reduced and the leaves turn yellow. On the other hand, if its quantity is more in the soil, the vegetative growth of the plant is more due to which the stem becomes weak, the leaves become hard and the flowers come late.

Potash – This keeps the plant healthy. Plants get more tolerance against diseases.

Due to its deficiency, the edges of the leaves of the plant become brown.

Due to its excess, the end parts of the roots of the plant get burnt.

Phosphorus – Due to its deficiency, the growth of the roots is not proper. The flowers also remain small. The edges of the leaves turn red.

Magnesium – Due to the deficiency of this element, the color of the leaves turns yellow, this yellowness first appears on the new leaves, later the old leaves also gradually turn yellow. Due to excessive deficiency of this element, the plants even die. It is very important to have proper amount of this element in the soil otherwise the color of the leaves does not remain green.

Iron- The deficiency of this element is first seen on the leaves, as a result of which the growth of the plant stops. Due to severe deficiency of this element, the leaves become white in color.

Manganese- Due to the deficiency of this element, spots appear on the leaves and the deficiency of manganese element can be removed by giving “Manganese sulphate”.

Planting a chrysanthemum

Propagation of Chrysanthemum

Propagation of Chrysanthemum by seeds

One-year chrysanthemum is always propagated through seeds. First, healthy plants are prepared from its seeds in the nursery and then transplanted. Seeds are sown in the nursery in the month of October, and after 4-6 weeks, the prepared plants are planted in the field or pots, which give flowers from February to April. Plants of these varieties grow up to a height of about 60-75 cm.

Preparation of Chrysanthemum Plants - For preparing flower plants, beds in high and shady places are used in the nursery area. For this, generally small beds whose width is 1 meter, length is 1.5 meter and 10-15 cm high should be made. In each bed, 2-5 kg ​​of well rotten leaf manure or compost or 1.5 kg of oil cake manure is added. Nowadays, vermicompost is being used more in nursery beds because it makes essential nutrients available to small plants quickly.

In the beds prepared in this way, flower seeds are mixed with double the amount of soil or ash and sprinkled evenly and then covered with a thin layer of sieved manure and soil mixture or ash. Chrysanthemum seeds are sown in lines at a distance of 8-10 cm and at a depth of 1 cm. Before sowing the seeds, Agrosan GN is used. Or, by treating the seeds with 2-3 grams of Bovestin per kilogram of seeds and sowing them, the disease of damping off is prevented.

Before the seeds germinate, light irrigation should be done every evening with a sprinkler or sprinkler. After the seeds germinate, the interval of irrigation can be increased according to the weather. When the plants are 2 weeks old, at that time the weeds growing in the beds should be removed by hand and hoeing should also be done with a thin hoe or nail. To protect the newly sprouted tender plants in the beds from diseases and insects, suitable insecticides like Malathion and 0.1 percent solution of fungicide Blitox 50 should be sprayed from time to time. In this way, the flower plants become transplantable after about 3-4 weeks. After this, chrysanthemum plants are planted in pots etc. as per convenience.

Growing large flowers

Large flowers can be grown in two ways-

1. Growing a single flower plant.

2. Growing two or three flower plants.

For this type of plant, only varieties with large flowers are selected; such as Pratipata, Ankunchit etc. Varieties selected for large size are mostly planted by cuttings and when the roots become 2 to 3 cm long, they are planted in pots. The time for new roots to emerge depends on the variety and weather. Usually 2-3 cm long roots emerge in 3 to 5 weeks. A pot of 20 cm diameter is suitable for growing two or three flowers. The potting mix should be nutritious and have proper drainage-

Cow dung manure           - two parts

Leaf manure                     - two parts

Clay soil                           - one part

Bone manure                    - one part

After planting the saplings, the soil above their roots should be pressed well with fingers. The pots should be kept empty from the top about 4 cm. Five days after planting, a one cm thick layer of finely fertilized cake should be spread in the pot so that the manure gets dissolved and reaches the plant when watered. Liquid manure should be started in the month of August because the roots develop well in this period. Liquid manure should be given every week. Apart from this, 5 grams of ammonium nitrate, 5 grams of potassium nitrate are dissolved in 10 liters of water and given to the plant. This should be given for the first time in the beginning of September and the second time in the middle of September. At the end of September or beginning of October, 2.0 to 2.5 cm space at the top of the pot should be filled with the following mixture-

Farming manure             - one part

Garden soil                        - one part

Wood ash                           - one part

Neem cake                        - 1/4 part

Buds start appearing on the plants in the beginning of October. Remember that at this time, fertilizer should be stopped, otherwise the vegetative growth of the plant will continue and the fruit will not be good.

1. Growing a flower plant

For growing this type of plant, the cuttings are planted in the sand in the month of July for rooting. When the roots emerge in the month of August, they are planted in 20 cm pots. Till the plant grows, the main branch is kept straight by giving support. The support is made of bamboo sticks. They are painted green. In this, apart from the main branch, all the branches are broken at the beginning when they are smaller than one cm. Similarly, the roots that come out of the pots or the ground should also be broken so that the plants can grow properly. In the beginning of October, except for the central bud, all the other buds should be broken. This should be done only till the central bud grows to about 1/2 cm. There is a risk of the central bud getting damaged if it is broken earlier. When the buds appear on the plants and the colour of the bud starts appearing, the bamboo sticks should be cut from below the bud and tied so that the bamboo sticks remain below the flower and do not spoil the flower petals.

2. Growing a two or three flower plant

In this way, cuttings are planted in the month of June for rooting and in the month of July, the cuttings become ready for planting in 25 cm pots. When 8-10 leaves appear on the plants, the flower should be plucked leaving 6-7 leaves. A few days after plucking from the top, other branches sprout out of which only as many branches should be kept as the flowering plant is to be grown. The rest of the branches should be plucked. If a plant with three flowers is to be grown, then branches 12, 4 and 8 should be visible from the top in 'cloak position'. These branches are tied with wire and buried in the soil of the pot at the bottom. By doing this, the branches spread outwards and separate from the middle, leaving the middle space open. When the branches start growing outwards from the bottom, then all the three branches are tilted outwards and given support by bamboo sticks. Bamboo sticks are pressed in the pot. By giving support to the bamboo sticks in this way, the plant gets space to grow in the middle. In this, except these three branches, the rest of the branches are also broken. The rest of the actions are done like a flowering plant!

3. Pot Mums

Growing small plants in small pots is called 'Pot Mums'. It gives 15-20 flowers. Chrysanthemum is very much liked in "Pot Mums" because in a small pot, in a small plant, more flowers are used to decorate the house. Earlier, flowers were produced throughout the year by increasing or decreasing the light and temperature, but now such varieties are available which keep giving flowers in different seasons. Therefore, varieties have been selected according to the flowering in every month. Varieties of all types of flowers are available. The type of flowers that you want to get at a particular time can be planted and flowers can be taken as per your wish. First, some chemicals are sprayed to make the varieties dwarf; like 'Cycocel Phosphon D, B Nine'. Dwarf varieties are also available for growing chrysanthemums. Dwarf varieties are used for growing pot mums chrysanthemums. Their plants are grown by cuttings.

Planting rooted cuttings- In this, 3 or 6 rooted cuttings are planted in a pot. The potting mixture is prepared with the following things-

Clay soil                      - 1 part

Leaf manure                - 2 parts

Cow dung manure      - 2 parts

After filling the pot with the mixture, 5 or 6 rooted cuttings are placed around the pot at equal distances and pressed well in the middle so that the plants stand straight in the middle. Check once again that the distance between all the cuttings is equal. The length of all the cuttings should be equal. Immediately after planting the cuttings in the pot, water should be given. After that, it should be kept in the shade for 9-10 days.

Giving Neem oil cake to the plant after one month of planting the cuttings in the pot helps in good growth of the plant. From the month of August and September, keep giving liquid fertilizer every 15 days until the buds appear.

This type of plants can be grown by pinching or without pinching. If grown by pinching then the plants have to be planted in the pot a little early. When 8-10 leaves appear, then pluck them from the top and leave 7-8 leaves. 8-10 leaves appear in about 10 to 20 days, however it depends on the variety and weather. If pinching is done early then the plants become tall. If done late, then the plants also do not grow well. All other activities are done according to the first method.

Planting chrysanthemum

Irrigation

Irrigation of chrysanthemum plants is not easy. It is difficult to decide a time and period for its irrigation. Give water when the plant needs it and give it in the quantity that is required.

If the plants are to be planted on a sloping place, then make such a deep basin around each plant or its bed that irrigation and rain water can be stopped and does not flow straight away.

During the growing season, they should definitely be watered daily. Plants in pots dry out and demand water more quickly than those in the ground.

After every transplantation or change, water at least once in a day so that the tender roots can penetrate the moist soil.

In summer, irrigate only after sunset, so that the plants can take full advantage of the water even at night.

Disbudding

Although the chrysanthemum grower is busy from the time of germination of roots till the flowering of the plants and every work of his cultivation has its own charm, but the time from the appearance of buds till the development of flowers is very interesting.

Before this, he spends 9 months in changing the plants again and again to make them strong, mature and capable of producing best flowers because if he makes even a small mistake during the selection of the plants, then he loses a special plant or a promising flower.

In its successful cultivation and especially in the exhibition varieties, the work of selection of buds is very important. The reason is, if every bud on the plant is allowed to bloom, then definitely the flowers bloom very normally.

The work of protecting the best buds by plucking out the weak small buds is done to increase the size of the flowers and improve their structure by using the entire energy of the plant on these left buds only.

Which buds should be left in chrysanthemum to provide the best flowers is mentioned below-

In plants of ornamental varieties grown in bushy and other styles, undoubtedly flowers are always taken from the last buds. When the plant reaches 12 cm height, the central stem of the plant is allowed to grow and only three or four strong lateral branches, which come out ahead of time, are stopped by giving proper distance between them. All the remaining branches are plucked. When the stopped branches grow, in a few weeks, they take the last buds at their ends which are in bunches. Among these, the largest bud is in the middle of the bunch. To encourage the growth of these big buds, the remaining small buds are also plucked and the other sub-branches or small buds that keep on coming out of the branches that have been stopped are also plucked immediately. In this way, one bud remains on each branch, which is given full opportunity to develop. The more the number of branches, the more will be the number of flowers and the fewer the flowers on a plant, the bigger will be their size.

If instead of limiting it to only three-four branches, plants are made of 8, 9 or even more branches, then even by plucking one third of the buds of such a bush, a sufficient number of medium sized flowers come.

The branches and buds that are to be plucked should be plucked as soon as they reach the size that can be plucked. Do not pluck all the buds and branches together, otherwise the spread of the life-sap of the plant gets obstructed and it gets damaged. Keep plucking them little by little for several days. Prune one or two lateral branches per plant daily, in the direction of the terminal bud, to allow the pruned buds to continue to grow unhindered.

Unlike the larger Japanese class of flowers, the smaller pom-pon or anemone class of flowers do not require bud pinching.

Every flower lover tries to ensure that his excellent and beautiful flowers bloom in the month of November or on the date fixed for a special exhibition, so that as many of his main plants as possible are available for display in the best condition.

Successful cultivation of chrysanthemums requires proper calculation of months, weeks and days.

Usually, it takes one month from the time the colour fades to the time the buds bloom completely and two and a half or three months from the time the buds appear to the time they are ready to bloom.

Manage different varieties of different natures in such a way that all the early and late varieties produce buds by mid-August. This requires pruning and plucking of buds at the right time.

Growers of large flowers are interested in the first and second crown buds, although there are instances when flowers of high quality are obtained from the apical buds.

It is easiest to plant those varieties which give excellent flowers from the natural first bud. These varieties establish their first barrier by the end of May and the desired buds emerge by mid-August. If they are grafted in February and no more than three branches are retained on each plant, if left undisturbed, they never establish early barriers. All their efforts go in vain because the buds emerge so late that they do not develop properly in time. For such varieties, pinching has to be done. This means that the apical tip of the plant should be pinched off. This will throw out lateral branches in the same way as it does in case of pinching off of the inhibitory bud.

The time of this operation has to be changed according to different varieties. Hence, it is also called timing. Pinching off the bud also involves breaking off the nearby branches.

The first and second crown buds have already been described. But it often happens that two producers are successful in getting good flowers on both the buds from the same variety. The first one is from the first crown bud with or without pinching and the second one is with hot atmosphere. The second one is from the crown bud, which always gives beautiful and brighter flowers in colours than the first bud. The only difference is of atmosphere.

Even though bigger flowers come out from the varieties with first crown bud, their red and pink colours are comparatively dull and light. Yes, it is usually appropriate to take single or semi-filled flowers from the first crown bud and they also bloom first.

If there is doubt about the buds coming out on time, then in that situation two methods can be adopted. Give the plants a pinch in March and early June or let the first inhibitory bud come out naturally and in early June, when the first crown bud comes out, give the pinch if required.

There are also excellent varieties available which reach the first crown bud naturally without pinching. These can be managed very easily. It is also possible that in warm climate, the second crown bud can also be obtained from them on time and its bright colours too. In cold places, they too will have to be pinched in mid-May.

If the first crown buds of the late blooming varieties appear in the first fortnight of August, then the flowers formed from them develop in the month of November, exactly at the same time as those of the early blooming varieties.

If the flower grower fails to pluck the first crown buds of the late blooming varieties in August, then he keeps the second crown buds formed after that healthy for flower display. In single and stunted varieties, ugly flowers develop in the buds formed very early. For this reason it is advisable to pinch off the buds which are formed in the first fortnight of August and depend on those which are formed on the branches coming out from behind i.e. crown buds.

If necessary, the growth of the plants can be hindered to some extent by keeping the pots in open air in a cool place and by shading them and by withholding liquid manure.

On the other hand, their growth can be encouraged by keeping them in a warm place and open sunlight and by giving stimulating liquid fertilizer.

Plants Protection

Various types of diseases and insects damage the chrysanthemum crop at its various stages. For the prevention of major diseases and insects, adopt the following plant protection measures-

Diseases-

Red Mildew- The water that gets stagnant on the top of the plants causes this disease. The buds become deformed. The pots that have been brought in the shade due to sudden rain should be shaken off and kept outside for some time so that their moisture evaporates completely.

Brown Mildew- This is a type of brown powdery substance that forms a membrane and covers the leaves. This is a form of Madhurika (fungus) disease, which attacks many plants. This disease attacks especially those plants which are kept close to each other and between which air and light cannot enter properly. If this disease is not prevented in time, then it reaches the petals of flowers from the leaves and thus has an adverse effect on the growth of the plant. It is destroyed by spraying potassium sulphide or Radheen solution. Applying sulphur dust on the leaves is also beneficial.

Black spots - This is also a sign of moisture and acidity in the soil. This disease also occurs due to strong fertilizer or excess manure and purple or black spots appear on the leaves. For this, put slaked fine lime in the roots and hoe. In the last change, it is best to put a layer of charcoal on the pots. Spraying 2 grams of Blightox dissolved in one liter of water is beneficial.

Leaf rust - This is a very serious disease caused by fungus, due to the side effects of which blisters appear on the leaves. As the infection increases, yellow spots on the leaves turn dark brown and finally the plant is destroyed. To get rid of this, pluck the infected leaves and burn them or touch the bush with methylated spirit on the spots. Taking care that the spirit does not fall on the leaves, dissolve 30 grams of potassium sulphide in 9 liters of lukewarm water and spray it every week. The solution should reach both sides of the leaves and also on the soil. It should be sprinkled in the pots and on the ground around the plants, so that all the fungi there die. Roots should not be taken from these plants.

Leaf spot - This is a disease caused by fungus, dark brown spots appear on the leaves, due to which the plants become ugly and their growth stops. Pluck the infected leaves and burn them immediately. To prevent further attack, spray the plants thoroughly with a solution of 'potassium sulphide'. For effective control of leaf spot, 6 sprays of Dithane M 45 (0.2%) should be done at an interval of 15 days after the onset of the disease.

Insect- Pest

Thrips - These very small insects attack the lower surfaces of the leaves and enter inside by making holes in their skin. They suck the life juice. The adult insect becomes brown in colour but remains small in size. Their caterpillars (lakha) are yellow in colour and have no legs. Both are very agile and jump as soon as they are disturbed. Due to sucking the juice, the leaves turn yellow. One can get rid of them by burning tobacco or spraying soap solution.

Aphids - Its two types damage chrysanthemum. One is the common lice of the plant i.e. green fly. And the other is black aphid. Both these insects are epidemics which attack the lower surfaces of the leaves. They also attack the soft ends of the branches and suck the life juice of the branches by binding the outer skin, which has an adverse effect on the growth of the plants. When these insects are on the branches of the plants, sprinkle fine tobacco powder and after a gap of one or two days, spray it with water or in open weather, in the evening, you can also spray a solution of soap, Basudine or Falidol, but never spray this solution in cold weather.

Ear ring - These insects eat the soft petals at night. But they cause a lot of harm to the plants. Adopt the following measures to protect against them-

1. Some pots are kept near the plants, half filled with moss grass and covered with cones of folded papers. Insects get collected in these, which can be destroyed with these papers every day, which reduces the harm.

2. If tissue paper is wrapped and placed on the ends of the stems near the pots, then these insects collected in them can also be killed.

3. By applying Vaseline around each stem, a little below the developing buds, the buds are also saved.

How to Grow Chrysanthemum from Seed

Woodworm - Some types of this worm like to eat the buds of chrysanthemum. Hairworm is the main one among them. Its colour is lead brown. It doubles up when disturbed. There are yellow spots on its waist and both sides. The colour of a third type is grey and the waist is rough and spotted. Since they work during the night, the damage caused by them is assumed to be caused by other insects. During the day, they remain hidden under dry garbage or in nearby holes. Clean the garbage around by sweeping. Wherever there is a possibility of their presence, hot water should be poured there. To lure them, apply syrup inside old pots around the plants and fill them with dry grass and keep them here and there and kill the collected insects every day.

Green fly - At the time of bud formation, they gather between the leaves on the tops of the plants. At the same time, other juice sucking insects also attack. To prevent them, spray a solution of Malathion 2 ml in one liter of water, because they gather on these tops. Tobacco water solution can also be sprayed for its prevention.

Method of making tobacco water - Soak 2 kg crushed tobacco in a bucket of water overnight. Next day, grind 30 grams of alum and add it to it. In the sunlight, turn the pots upside down in this solution and dip the tops of the plants and take them out. Keep the pots lying down for an hour so that excess solution drips down. If the plants are in beds, then filter the solution and spray it.

White beetle maggot - These get into the roots and kill them by eating them. If well planted plants appear wilted, then understand the reason for this. In such a situation, remove the plants from the pots and shake off their old contaminated soil and plant them in new, germ-free, pure soil.

Shambhuk - These are of two types. One is milky and the other is black. They attack the newly emerged branches and buds of chrysanthemum. When there is moisture in the atmosphere, these insects become more active. They can be easily caught and killed.