The History and Origins of Bonsai

 

The History and Origins of Bonsai

                                                                                

Bonsai literally means dwarf plants. These plants are the dwarf form of any big plant. "Bon" means tray or container and "Sai" means plant. Bonsai are small forms of trees and they have all the qualities of a tree. Bonsai is an art of life which has been propagated and spread all over the world today. It is a very subtle art in which the hands of the craftsman, the eye of the painter, the imagination of the poet and the art of the gardener all develop together. Dwarf plants may be planted in any plate but they should not be considered as ordinary plants in a pot, which are usually planted for beautiful leaves or flowers. Bonsai is a special and important art. In this, trees are grown in pots in such a way that their natural form remains intact, but they remain dwarf in size. 

Bonsai art is thousands of years old in Japan, there it is pronounced as "Bonsigh". It is said that this practice was first started by Buddhist monks. Trees struggling for nutrients on rocky places grow less, which means that they remain stunted. Buddhist monks adopted this art because it gives an idea of ​​the struggle of life. After planting these trees in pots, the monks started giving them such an environment in which they grew very little and remained dwarf for years. After some time, the trees started being given different shapes and sizes according to taste and beauty. Finally, the tradition of establishing harmony between the shape and size of the pot and the shape and size of the tree started developing. Nowadays, many natural depictions have started being made through Bonsai. Bonsai can be kept around and inside the house, even in less space. These dwarf trees are a source of attraction due to their unique appearance and also a 'natural environment' can be created by keeping them in groups.

Nowadays Bonsai plants have a special place in homes and their popularity is increasing day by day. There is a trend of keeping them in low height tables and porch inside the rooms and planting them in rock gardens (rockery) outside. Generally, the work of preparing Bonsai plants is done in a corner of the garden surrounded by bush fence or boundary wall. A "Bonsai workshop" can also be built for this work. Keep in mind that for this, such a place should be selected where sunlight comes throughout the day, and also there should be a system to arrange shade when the plants need it. Proper arrangement of water is essential.

In Bonsai, the following activities are mainly done to make the plants dwarf-

• Cutting the top buds and thin branches.

• Pruning the roots.

• Cutting some thick branches in between.

By doing the above activities, the growth of roots remains limited, as a result of which the size of the plants remains small.

Details of the necessary items and factors for Bonsai creation are given below—

Pots

In Bonsai art, trees are grown in shallow pots. Hence, there is less soil around their roots. Due to this, less amount of nutrients are available to the plants. For this art, the pots can be square, rectangular, circular, oval or hexagonal, but they should be shallow. Their depth is two to fifteen cm and width is up to 40 cm. For very small Bonsai plants (Mame bonsai), pots of three to five cm width and 1.5 cm depth are required, but it is difficult to grow such Bonsai in dry areas. All types of pots should have a large drainage area. To fulfill this purpose, the number of holes can be more than one depending on the pot. Smooth pots, whose outer surface is made of clay, are suitable for dry areas, because evaporation of water is less from them. Clay pots are more useful for areas with hot and humid climate. Generally, natural colors are used on pots which are not too bright as compared to the plant. Generally, black or white colored pots are not considered good.

The history and Origins of Bonsai Tree

Style

Style has a special and important place in Bonsai art. Nowadays, special attention is being paid to style. Generally, their maximum height is up to 40 cm and about the same width is sufficient. But the maximum height of very small "Baby Bonsai" plants is up to 7 cm. Bonsai are given different shapes by pruning. These special shapes have taken the form of different styles nowadays. According to the Bonsai Association of Japan, 13 types of styles are popular at present.

(1) Upright tree - This style is called 'Shokhan' in Japanese language. In this, the stems grow straight, thinning upwards, the branches around the main stem grow upwards making an angle of 90° with the stem. Tertiary branches are not allowed to grow from secondary branches. As a result, there is a lot of open space between two secondary branches. This style is suitable for trees like pine, silver oak, Michelia champaka, fir etc.

(2) Twin Trunk tree - This style is called 'Sokan' in Japanese language. In this type of Bonsai plants, two stems per tree are allowed to grow from the soil surface itself. One of these stems is slightly bigger than the other. Sometimes 3 to 5 stems are also kept in place of two stems. These stems are allowed to grow straight upwards from the ground. The heights of different stems are different.

(3) Multiple trunk tree - This is called "Kabudachi" style in Japanese language. In this, 6 or more stems are allowed to grow straight upwards from one root. (4) Sinuous - In this, several stems are allowed to grow from a single root, whose lengths vary, some of them may be straight above the ground, some parallel to the ground, some curved or inclined towards the ground.

(5) Slanting bonsai - In this style, there is one main stem. Which grows straight, inclined at an angle of 45° from the ground surface. On both its sides, parallel to the ground surface, other branches emanating from the main stem are also allowed to grow.

(6) Broom - In this style, the main stem is straight, but the other branches emanating from the central stem are allowed to grow only in two opposite directions, as a result, the shape of the tree becomes like a fan. 

(7) Exposed root tree - In this style the stem grows upward at an angle of 90° or 45° from the ground surface, and the roots too are seen growing above the soil and it appears as if the roots have been separated from the soil due to soil erosion. In this method, the roots of the plant are not buried in the soil while planting, and some roots are kept exposed upwards and sand is placed around them. When the plant is well established, the sand is removed, allowing the roots to be exposed.

(8) Cascade - It is also called 'Kengai' in Japanese language. This is a very popular style. In this the main stem is bent in such a way that the tree becomes downward facing. It is allowed to grow up to 60 to 90 cm so that it reaches below the bottom of the pot. Therefore it is kept on a table, stool or a cut piece of the main stem of an old tree etc.

(9) Roft or Ikada tree - In this style the main stem of the tree is dropped parallel to the soil of the pot and branches are allowed to develop in it at 2-3 places. Later these branches take the form of main stems. The tertiary branches that emerge from their straight growing secondary branches are pruned like the upward growing branches. (10) Wind Swept - In this style, the tree forms an angle of 90° with the ground surface and at the same time the branches emanating from the main stem are allowed to grow in the same direction, so that it appears that these branches and the tree have been affected by strong gusts of wind. In this, the main stem can be one or two stems.

(11) Group of trees - In this style, many trees are grown in a single pot. Generally, flat, shallow and large pots are used for this, so that the whole landscape can be seen in them. In this, other branches are not allowed to emerge from the main stem till a height of about 30 cm. In this method, the grouping of trees is done in an informal manner so that they look natural. Generally, plants of the same species are grown in these, but sometimes one or two trees of other species are also seen. 1

(12) Literati bonsai - In this style, one or two main branches grow obliquely from the surface of the soil of the pot and except their top, the other branches coming out from the lower part of the main stem are cut and pruned, due to which their size remains dwarf.

(13) Rock Grown tree - In this style, old stones or pieces of rocks are kept on the surface of the soil of the pot so that the roots of the tree spread on them. Sometimes the pieces of stones or rocks are quite long and wide and they are kept near the trees. Then the tree grows by sticking to this rock in such a way as if it has grown from it.

Apart from these styles, different types of bonsai can be made by making slight modifications. But the method of pruning and shaping of all these is basically one of the styles described above.

The History and Origins of Bonsai Plants

Selection of trees

While selecting trees, special attention is paid to the beauty of their flowers, colour and appearance of buds and leaves, the time of their emergence and flowering etc. For this, only such fruit trees are selected, whose flowers are colourful and attractive. But sometimes such trees are also selected, whose branches' shape and type become more attractive after the leaves fall.

Among the trees suitable for bonsai, pine has the highest place, then comes Ezo spruce, whose leaves are similar to pine. Both of these are evergreen trees, although both evergreen and deciduous trees are used for bonsai. The names of trees used for Bonsai in Japan are given below-

Evergreen trees and shrubs-

1. Camellia (Camelia japonica)

2. Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria japonica)

3. Cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa)

4. Kumquat (Fortuneala japonica)

5. Gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides)

6. Holly (Ilex srenata)

7. Juniperus (Juniperus chinensis)

8. Rhododendron (Rhododendron sp.)

9. Pine (Pinus pentaphylla)

10. Serissa (Serissa foetida)

11. Ezo Spruce (Picea jezoensis)

Deciduous trees or shrubs-

1. Maple (Acer buergerianum)

2. Japanese maple (Acer palmatum)

3. Berberis (Berberis thumbergii)

4. Quince (Chamenomales japonica)

5. Beech (Fagus japonica)

6. Maiden hair (Gingko biloba)

7. Jasmine (Jasminum grandiflorum)

8. Pride of India (Lagerostroemia flos-reginae)

9. Flowering cherry (Prunus sp.)

10. Fruiting plum (Prunus muma)

11. Pomegranate (Punica granatum )

12. Willow (Salix babylonica)

13. Lilac (Syringa vulgaris )

14. Crab Jew (Malus floribunda )

Suitable for Bonsai in India

Due to the difference in climate, in a country like India where all the Japanese trees cannot be grown easily, the following trees and shrubs can prove useful for Bonsai -

1. Evergreen trees

Araucaria

 Azadirachta Indica

Banyan

Bombax ceiba

Bottle Bush    

Cassia species

Ceylon Ironwood 

Cluster fig 

Delonix regia

Erythrina variegata  

Ficus virens

Guava

Golden shower   

Hazara     

Indian Cork Tree      

Indian gooseberry   

jacaranda blue   

Lagerstroemia speciosa     

Lebbeck tree 

 Lemon

Lychee  

Mango    

Orange  

Pine   

Pomegranate

Sacred fig

Silver Oak

Spanish cherry

wild pear

2. Deciduous Trees

Berberis

Birch

Bougainvillea

Bombax ceiba

Buddleia

Cedar

Fir

Fruit Plum

Pomegranate

Jasminum Nudiflorum

Lilac

Majnu Tree

Malus Floribunda

Oak

Pear

Pine

Plum

Winter Jasmine                              

The History and Origins of Bonsai Garden

Method of making Bonsai

First of all, the plant suitable for Bonsai is grown in a pot. Then its outer part is pruned in such a way that it can be given a predetermined shape according to the desired style. Immediately after this, the roots are pruned. Then the tree is planted in the pot. Although it seems quite easy, but a lot of caution is required in selecting such plants, which have the ability to get the desired form. Seedling plants are more suitable for this. Although seedling plants are definitely . They take 4-5 years to attain full size, but they are easy to cultivate. Also, their shape is more realistic and natural than grafted plants. In the nursery, the method of growing these plants in pots is the same as for other plants.

Repotting

The need for repotting depends on the species of the plant and its age. For slow-growing evergreen trees, such as pine, rhododendron, etc., repotting is beneficial every three to four years in hot and humid climates and after 4 to 6 years in dry climates. On the other hand, pots of fast-growing trees and shrubs that require more moisture are changed every year. Repotting every year is necessary for azalea, camellia, willowcherry, plum, kumquats, pear, Japanese maple, pride of India and jasmine plants. Slow-growing trees require pruning every second year. 

Pruning

Pruning is done after winter, as soon as summer starts. In evergreen plants, pruning is done a few days before winter starts. First of all, soil is prepared for the new pot. This soil should have proper drainage system, high capacity to hold air and water. For this, a mixture prepared by mixing garden soil, leaf mould and sand in equal quantities is best. In plants that require more humid climate and clay, leaf mould can be added up to 50%. In plants that require dry climate, the amount of garden soil can be increased to 50%. About 10% small pieces of brick can also be added to it so that water drainage is not adversely affected. For pine plants, one or two spoons of old lime and 5 to 10% clay can also be added. Slow acting fertilizers like bone meal can be added one to three teaspoons per pot, but mostly fertilizers are preferred to be sprayed in the form of a solution.

Before planting in a new pot, the plant is taken out from the pot along with the soil and the soil attached to the roots is separated with the help of a stick. This requires great care. Care is taken that the root hairs etc. do not break and one-third of the soil remains attached to the main roots. Long and fast growing roots are cut and shortened and dry roots are cut and separated from the place of origin. Mostly thin fibrous roots should be saved. The pruning of the roots of younger plants should be deep and that of older plants should be light. A thin layer of mixture of 2-3 pieces is spread in the pot. On top of this, a very thin layer of charcoal powder is spread. After this, the prepared soil mixture is filled up to three-fourth of the pot. Then those plants, whose roots have been pruned, are planted in the pot. Giving the right direction to the plants, soil is put on its roots and the pot is filled up to the top. The soil should be pressed lightly so that the direction of the plant does not change after watering. Then water is given and later the plant is placed in the fixed direction by pressing the soil a little. After this, a thin layer of soil from the old pot is spread over the soil of the new pot. If possible, a layer of dried moss is spread on the upper surface of the soil of the pot so that less water evaporates and the plant appears old. The plant is kept in semi-shade for two-three weeks so that the roots get well established.

The History and Origins of Bonsai

Shaping the plants and their pruning

The main objective during pruning is to provide a special shape to the bonsai. This shape is achieved in several years. Bonsai tree should not be given support of any wood etc., rather its natural form should be allowed to remain. Thin soft branches are given a definite direction with the help of copper or aluminum wires. Keep in mind that the branches do not break from the stem. When the branches become strong, the wire should be removed. Pieces of stone can be hung in the required weight to bend the branch down. Initially, those branches which grow up to five to seven cm are pruned, so that many small and rich branches can come out. In this pruning, only the top bud is cut or scratched with the help of nails. The main stem is kept thin towards the top. Sometimes the top bud of the main stem is also not cut.

Irrigation – Irrigation has a special effect on bonsai plants because the soil in their container is not much or deep. They should be lightly irrigated every day. If the soil is wet, irrigation should not be done. The soil should not be allowed to dry completely. The best time for irrigation is when the soil does not stick to the tip of the stick when inserted in the soil, but too much force is not required for this. Sprinkle water on the plants with a fountain and give so much water that water starts coming out from the holes at the bottom of the pot. In North India, irrigation is required twice a day in the months of May-June. In winters, irrigation may be required at an interval of one or two days. Plants in small pots need to be watered more frequently than those in large pots.

Fertilizing - Generally, Bonsai plants do not need to be given much fertilizer. The effect of fertilizer on Bonsai should be slow and less. Only that much amount of all the essential elements should be given in the form of inorganic fertilizer, so that the plants can carry out their life functions but their growth is minimal. In Japan, fertilizer tablets are used which are made of soybean and peanuts. There is a tradition of keeping it on the upper surface of the pot so that the nutrients keep reaching the roots slowly with water. Slow acting fertilizers like oil cakes, bone meal etc. are not useful for Bonsai. Sometimes these oil cakes are mixed in one or two spoons per liter of water and then put in the pot. Mainly the time to apply fertilizer is the time of changing the pot or if fertilizer has to be applied from above then May-June month (when the branches have become hard) is good.

Protection from adverse environmental conditions

• Bonsai plants require a cold environment, but the cold should be such that it does not have an adverse effect on the development and growth of the plants. If it is very cold outside, they should be kept in closed rooms at night.

• In snowy places, they have to be kept inside warm rooms or in glass houses, but the temperature there should not exceed 20°C.

• Protection from extreme cold and heat can also be provided by spreading it on the soil of the pot.

• Bonsai plants can also be protected by placing a nylon net over them during very cold or hot days.

• Bonsai plants should not be kept in the shade because plants grow rapidly in the shade and remain weak. Plants remain strong and dwarf by keeping them in sunlight. Therefore, bonsai plants should be kept as open and high as possible where there is bright sunlight and water has to be given frequently.